Palm wine, after dinner, properly cold.

There is a tapper outside Ijebu-Ode who wakes at four to be at his trees by five. By eleven, the wine is already vinegar. By two, it is undrinkable. The trick — if it is a trick — is to drink it before it is anything else.

Six member venues this April are pouring his wine, chilled to two degrees, in a small carafe at the end of dinner. We made the introductions; the venues did the rest.